Renovate cottage

A while ago I asked someone out of an old lamp outside the house I live in. When I saw it so I immediately thought that it might fit in the cabin, but knocked away the thought, I did not really like it would fit.

This weekend, I was in Gävle, and in one of the antique shops I looked into so imagine my surprise, unless there was a similar lamp there and it cost almost 1000 bucks. Suddenly it changed my attitude to the lamp and I have now taken up the lamp in my stash.

If I do not want to take it to the house eventually so I can sell it anyway. I will certainly need as much money as possible in the summer when I'll start on the renovation of the cottage.

When the roof beams supported up rodentligt, new cross members attached to the joists. These cross members to move from the house side up to the ridge and there will be two rooms boards with 120 cm spacing between the beams.

The cross beams and between roof beams to be fixed beneath the ceiling. The ceiling should be boards that go along with the roof beams.

The ceiling will not end up to the ridge where there should be room to later fill the space with wood shavings.

On the ceiling between the cross members to roofing felt attached.

Then the roof is added.

On the roof and tar paper, added on top tjärpappen should be played.

Finally, the tiles are laid on top lekten.

Once the girders are in place, the bracing that I have described here previously that looks like a cross set up as an extra support beams.

Before it is made, the wall that is now on the lower floor is removed and replaced with an upright beam.

When the chimney has been bricked up, the next project is started, this is primarily to replace the two beams and then put on the roof.

As it stands today, is tile roof put directly on an old birch-bark roof. Birch bark roof can not cope with brick roof's weight and it has started to sag in the middle.

It needs to be done is to remove the two beams that have been water damaged and collapsed in the middle. Last fall I cut a pine tree and has prepared two beams as it only needs to be cut out slots in order to fit where they should be structured.

So before I lift up the beams of the roof, the old beams taken from the roof and used as templates for the new beams, so that they get the right length and notches to be cut out cut in the right place and deep enough that the beams should be horizontally.

In order to get the beams of the roof, I will use the hoist, I've got hold of. When the beams are right heavy, I suspect that I will use the car to help pull up the beams of the roof. This as assistance to the hoist.

Once the framework is built, and the mortar is mixed in 1:3 ratio so the chimney masonry.

The chimney will have a fireplace, an oven, and two cast-iron stoves connected to them.

It will have four flues, where one will be used for baking oven and the fireplace. A flue should be used to cast iron stove that will stand in the kitchen. A flue be used to absorb odors. The last chimney to be used for the cast iron stove to be installed up to heat the upstairs.

The parts will be difficult, with the chimney is in first position to get to the hot-air exchange that I have designed and want to build into the open sipsen.

After that the oven be difficult to recreate.

The two housings one on each side of the cooker will be of interest to build. There are many different angles that will be attractive and fit together.

After that, the less complicated piece with the four rökgångarna. To then conclude with cast iron tub, which must fit over the four flues. Optionally komemr be needed be a terminal of the stack where the four rökkanalernas size is reduced so that they fit inside diameter gjutjärnstunnans.

Before I could start mura up the chimney as I need to buy a concrete mixer, I looked around a bit and there are cheap to buy on the block or at such k-rauta for around 1000 SEK.

I've decided to buy lime from Gotland limestone. I will need about 50 kg, if I mix 1:3, and it looks to be bbetydligt cheaper to order it directly from them, than going to a dealer.

Limestone mill will be mixed with sand of grain size 0-3 mm, which is standard sand for mixing the mortar with.

Before the mill are mixed, a position built where the chimney is bricked up. This is to have a framework for the mortar, and to draw up the strings so that it is possible to keep the bearings straight and the thickness of the mill smoothly.

A few little things that will need to be done before the mortar of the chimney can be initiated:

To further support the roof beams to be an iron bar cemented into the chimney. The iron beam to be cemented into the chimney up at the roof ridge, and on one side supporting roof beam coming from one side of the house in toward the chimney and on the other hand, the beam supporting the roof beam coming from the other side of the house. In this manner, the two bars supporting the other by the iron beam. As an iron girder must be purchased that are of the correct dimensions.

In the fireplace is a cast iron plate in the bottom, but it is cracked in half. The need welded together again.

Four struts of cast iron that will support the two different covers, one for the fireplace and one should be over cast-iron stove in the kitchen, must be purchased.

Inmurat in the cover that sits over the open sipsen is an arc söttar the cover, it is broken, roasted and needs replacing, and a new factory, and another copy made to cover in the kitchen.

A plåtrör to be used to direct the smoke from the cast iron stove in the kitchen up in wskorstenen must be purchased.

A valve must be purchased to be added to the hole that cooking fumes shall be discharged by.

The cast iron door belonging to the oven is a little rusty and needs replacing.

For cast iron tub to be set to wind up the chimney, we need a hood, so that water will not drip inside.

That is what needs to be done to the chimney before you can think of to begin with murningsarbetet.

Once the cast iron tub is on the ground can nedtagandet and reuse of the bricks begin.

It is important that the bricks to be reused are cleaned thoroughly, then re-lime mortar is difficult to attach the dirty bricks. Luckily, this is not the lime mortar as hard materials like cement.

Each layer of bricks to be taken down and cleaned and the idea is that the whole process must be documented with still images, only to be turned into film.

It is important that the bricks coming from the bottom of the stack is separated from the tiles located in the upper part of footwear gene. This is so that the bricks of the lower portion of the stack is made of clear much higher temperatures than the bricks of the top of the chimney cope. If you mix these different types of brick, it will cause the bricks to the furnace itself then re-built with bursts when you light up.

When the chimney is taken down, and all the brick has been cleaned, the next step in the process: Structure of the chimney.

The first thing to do at the cottage this summer is to take down the chimney. The chimney has seen their best days and must be repeated from scratch. In order to take down the chimney I shall begin by removing the tiles around the chimney down to roof end.

The reason I do it is to that end of the chimney is a cast iron barrel. The thin, I have to take off the chimney before I can start taking down the chimney.

When I removed sjoket of bricks, I will lead a rope through the barrel and then connect the rope to a loop so that the barrel can slowly rolled down from the ceiling.

When the rope is attached to the barrel it should either be fixed in a tree some distance away, or down in the porch.

After that, the barrel tipped over on the side and slowly rolled down the roof.

Thereafter, the chimney can be started coming down.

The idea is that the chimney bricks to be reused, which is facilitated by the chimney has been built of lime mortar. Lime mortar is easy to remove from the tile when there is a hard material.

One of the things I want to do at the cottage is to build a root cellar of the old-fashioned model. My idea is to build a wooden frame as a vault and then pile rocks on top of it.

I've just found a book on how to build a root cellar is icaförlaget who published it. I hope that it shows how to build a root cellar in the traditional way, without cement.

If there is someone who has experience building a root cellar in the traditional way, so you are welcome to contact us. ThE would be gold to get some drawings and tips on what to consider.

If you ever thought about building your own hot tub, so you can read how to do it step by step on this page. A very good and detailed description http://www.caddysurfer.se/Badtunna/Index.htm

Good luck!

In Bergslagen Log , I found a pretty damn nice porch that I would welcome to my little cottage. It is not an issue in the current situation, but when the roof and chimney are fixed so getting closer to purchasing a new entrance to the cottage.

Booster Billings heater or water heater? That is the question.

Instead of using a water heater in the house so I am considering buying a flow-through heaters, Clage is the brand that I way, but even if http://www.sto-elinvest.se/ shows a wide variety of retailers, I just two of them have articles from Clage on their homepages.

The sad thing is that it seems expensive when compared to the prices I've seen in such Germany, but maybe it is still affordable in comparison to a water heater.

Using a flow-through heaters seem much more economical if you look at energy consumption. Read on one side as they take 20-25% less energy than a water heater.